Yesterday the men fashion week started in Milan, Dolce & gabbana presented there collection and i can say i am not crazy about their work this time.
Eccentric is what the designers wanted and they got it : "The board reads: Eccentric Tailoring. The Dolce&Gabbana Men Winter 2012 Collection's Must-Haves are about taking a plunge and letting your inner eccentric come out unexpectedly. Underline the word unexpected.
Off-center: the best way to describe what eccentric means. To which one must wonder where the center is. Especially when it comes to style, an eccentric would want to be the center of his own universe. Anti-conformist? Perhaps. If British music and fashion have taught us one thing it is that personality is the most-must ingredient of style. When creating an outfit, one is encouraged to follow a primordial instinct: ego. Ego, elegance, eccentric. The letter "E" is a promise of something that will quietly get to you. Watch out for the word quietly. When eccentric meets tailoring, it's not about the loss of measures but rather the opposite. Proportions are key, details a happening event, the fabrics the hymn to choice. One must rock his most gentlemanly attitude. As does Bryan Ferry. An icon. " (Swide).
The new fit of the pants matched with the short blazer jacket is new at DG, some digital printing on the pants as well, i loved the red all over print suit and the hand painted leather jacket. Some very nice new ideas for shirts, printed cuffs and arms and above the waist, and some over decorated baggy pants (that i personnally didn't like). The double breasted jackets (striped or not) are my favorite garments and the faux-fur is a bit too much in this collection, i would have prefered to see it in D&G line maybe.
"Do not follow the stream, express yourself, make it up to some extravagance but maintain your elegance… A wardrobe challenge? Not if you are Dolce&Gabbana. Masters of pattern cutting and perfect tailoring that fits and engage your body to a fashion conversation, the designers chose to opt for a complete seasonal renewal. The looks went down the catwalk with nonchalance showing effortless style. Sicily got its tribute via checked velvet, caps, and painted denim and carded pin stripes. If in the past Domenico and Stefano used to reveal some innovative prints to the ones who dare and care, next winter is no exception. Confident and shameless you should slip into a red& black tapestry inspired suit. The whole scenario is straightforward, dress in what makes you feel, free and happy. The story is short in the means of shrunken coats or rolled up pants. For the lowdown, the colour palette is ideal for whoever loves to mix and match. No separated themes. Live it up and enjoy, this show was a funky and rocky fashion moment with a clear message: meet the boys’ bands." Text by Delphine Hervieu from swide.com
Yes it is very right, this collection is much more liberating for the man's body and sense of fashion and came with the usual great tailoring of the brand but at the same time i missed something there between all the classic mixed and matched with the new. So what was missing there? I share the opinion with many designers, and one of my favorite designers is Tom Ford and he is of those who do not like short blazer jackets for men, also for the pants -and you will see it by yourself in the photos below- there was these playful cool low-rise carrot pants, tight at the bottom and wide on the top, but even on some of the models they didn't look nice so what can someone like me with a skinny body say about those pants?!!! Also the 3 prints on one of the knits really disturbs, it is like if the knit is short and that we can see 2 layers underneath it. Rough looks that added too much volume to the lower body part of the models.
In the collection as well, few accessories like coppola hats and wool hats, fantasy socks and the best accessory (and i think it's a must have), the rocker Oxford shoes.
Decide by yourself, but all in all, the show, themed " Sartoria Eccentrica ", was eccentric just like the designers wanted it to be, inspired by the music of Bryan Ferry who is featured on the t-shirts as well but not really close to his aesthetic.
More photos by clicking on read more below.
I dunno if i am seeing right but the satin fabric on the lapels of both jackets is too wrinkled
xxx
S
0 Yorumlar